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Shop CHIP INSTALLATION

REPLACING DME & KLR CHIP IN 944T

NOTE: A DME Chip in any Naturally Aspirated 924S, 944 from '85/2 would be the same process shown here only you're only changing a DME Chip since there is no KLR on the rack.

Replacing the chip set in the 944 Turbo is typically the first modification anyone does. It's not necessary to take the car to a mechanic to perform this switch. We feel it's pretty straight forward and can be performed by anyone.

*** DISCONNECT THE GROUND TERMINAL ON THE BATTERY BEFORE PROCEEDING ***

Step #1 "Locate DME / KLR & Remove Foot Board"


The DME/KLR Rack is located under the passenger's feet. The carpet is attached at the top with Velcro. Pull or peel the carpet back to expose the protective foot board.

The foot board has four #2 Philips screws holding it in place. Remove all four screws and accompanying washers and remove the foot board.



Step #2 "Remove DME / KLR Rack"


There are two #2 Philips screw at the bottom of the rack and two plastic screws at the top that can be removed with a straight blade screwdriver. Remove all 4 pieces and pull out the rack. It works best to pull from the bottom.



Step #3 "Un-plug DME & KLR"


There is a locking spring tab on the wire outlet end of both the DME and KLR plug. Pry away from the plug using your finger or a screwdriver.



Step #4 "Rotate Plug Connector Out"


While holding out the spring tab, rotate out the plug. This is done the same way on both the DME and KLR.

You will also need to disconnect the KLR hose/tube from the KLR. There is a small knurled thumb collar at the KLR. Un-screw this collar from the fitting. Once you pull the collar back away from the fitting, carefully pull the hose off the fitting's nipple.

In these pictures, the KLR line is cut as we have connected in a boost gauge and "T"ed it in at this point.



Step #5 "Orientation & Identification"


The DME and KLR are pictured here on their rack. The DME (right) is larger than the KLR (left). This view may come in handy later when re-installing them back on the rack.



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Step #6 "Remove DME & KLR From Rack"


You may choose to remove one at a time to change the chip, or both together. Remove the Phillips screws attaching them to the rack.



Step #7 "Prepare To Remove Cover"


Lay the DME on it's back to expose the cover tabs.



Step #8 "Bending Tabs For Cover Removal"


With a straight blade screwdriver, get underneath the tabs and pry or bend them up at 90 degrees to the DME back.



Step #9 "Remove DME Cover"


Once the tabs are all bent up, simply remove the cover and plastic insulator sheet.



Step #10 "Separate The Board"


We find the easiest way to separate the board is to "pop" it up with your thumbs. While holding down on the bottom or back with your fingers, gently press up on the top board with your thumbs. The board posts will separate with a "pop". If your chip has never been changed, it may be stiff so go slow and easy. Don't over extend or press too far with your thumbs. In other words, when pressing, anticipate limiting the movement of your thumb so you don't overdo it.



Step #11 "Separated Board"


Here you see the board posts separated.



Step #12 "Slide Out Board"


While holding down the DME, and the ribbon side of the board released from the posts (board should be at a angle now) slip or slide the board out of the plug or connector end.



Step #13 "Flip Open"


After you slip out the end, you can simply lay the top board back open, exposing the DME chip.



Step #14 "Remove DME Chip"


With a straight blade screwdriver, slip the tip under the end of the chip between the chip and the chip socket. Gently rotate the screw driver counter clockwise then clockwise about 1/8 turn back and forth. Continue to slip the screw driver in further and further as you continue to rotate the screwdriver.



Step #15 "Empty Socket"


The DME chips socket is now ready for the new DME chip.



Step #16 "Orient & Position DME Chip"


The DME chip has a "notch" on one end. The socket that the DME chip plugs into also has a "notch". These need to be aligned notch above notch. Make sure the chips pins are aligned with all the holes in the socket.



Step #17 "Press in DME Chip"


Slowly and gently press the chip into the socket. Once in, view the pins to make sure they all went into the sockets and not bent outward and missed.



Step #18 "Insert Board In Plug"


With the board tilted, slip the board end back into the plug end of the DME.



Step #19 "Snap Together"


With the end into the plug, press down on the top board ribbon cable end and it will "snap" back together on the posts.



Step #20 "Close Tabs"


With the cover and white plastic insulator back in place, use the screwdriver and fold the tabs back over to their original position. If you think you might be back in here at some point in the future, you may only want to bend over a couple of the tabs. When you fold them back and forth over and over, they tend to break off.



Step #21 "KLR Board Opening"


Remove the KLR from the rack if you haven't already. Remove the cover and plastic insulator as you did on the DME by bending back the tabs. On the KLR, it may (usually does) have another device holding the boards together in addition to the posts as with the DME.

There is a pin passing through the boards and locking into place with the "jaw" on the top board. Locate this and press the pin down on the end with the screwdriver.



Step #22 "Pull Pin"


Flip the KLR over and locate the pin. Pull it a little further out to about what you see in this picture and leave there.



Step #23 "Snap Board Apart & Lay Open"


Just like the DME, using your finger and thumbs, pop apart the ribbon cable end of the KLR boards. Then lay the top board back to open and expose the KLR chip.



Step #24 "Orient KLR Chip With Socket"


Like the DME, we need to align the notches on the KLR chip and chip socket. Once aligned, place the KLR chip into the socket and make sure all the pins are aligned with the pin sockets.



Step #25 "Press In KLR Chip"


Gently press the KLR chip into the socket.



Step #26 "Slide Board Into Plug End"


With the board tilted, slip the board back into the plug end of the KLR.



Step #27 "Press Board Together"


Press the ribbon cable end of the board back together until the board posts snap together like they did with the DME.



Step #28 "Press in Pin


Press the pin back into the boards.



Step #29 "Mount DME & KLR On Rack."



Attach the DME and KLR back onto tie rack using the Phillips screws.



Step 30 "Install DME & KLR Plugs"


The DME and KLR plug have a lip or tab on the end opposite the wires that needs to slip under and into a mating hole. Slide the plug into the DME with it tipped up, then rotate down and snap into place making sure the spring tab has secured and locked down the plug.



Step 31 "Install DME & KLR Rack"


First we need to re-connect the KLR hose. Push the hose back onto the fitting nipple and then screw down and secure the knurled collar.

In the case of this car, you see the "T" where we have tied in the boost gauge. Make sure that you position things so that the vacuum hose connectors do not fold over or pinch off the vacuum hoses when putting the foot board back on. This could cause a loss of boost signal to the KLR and Boost Gauge which would not be good.

After making sure both plugs are seated correctly, and the KLR hose it connected, place the DME / KLR rack back into the floor. Secure with the 4 fasteners that you removed earlier.



Step 32 "Install Foot Board"


After looking to make sure all wires are in place and not pinched, and that the KLR line is not kinked in any way, then re-position the foot board on the DME & KLR rack. Re-Install the 4 screws and washers and tighten. Replace carpet.


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INTERNATIONAL ORDERING



TO OUR INTERNATIONAL CUSTOMERS:


In the past, we have used a separate order form for placing International orders. We have quit using that process and are requiring all customer to use the shopping cart system built into the web site and it's check out process.

If you simply want a quotation and are not ready to place an order, then cut and paste the contents of your shopping basket, take a screen shot of the basket, or make a list of items and send us a email requesting a quotation with shipping.

If you need shipping prices before you make your final decision to purchase, then you should request that quotation by email and not use the shopping cart checkout process because you will be paying for the parts at that time.

Since our shopping cart and shipping estimator will "NOT" correctly calculate shipping charges on International Orders, we have it set-up to where the shipping will be Zero Dollars ($0.00) when checking out. When the shopping carts address process learns you are not in the United States by selecting your particular country, that's when it switches to equal Zero. That does NOT mean shipping is free.

Upon completion of the check out process, you will have paid for your parts but NOT the shipping on those parts.

Once we look over your parts ordered and calculate shipping weights and box sizes, we will send you an E-Mail with at least one shipping option and maybe several. We utilize UPS, DHL and the United States Postal Service (USPS) to deliver your parts.

Once you pick a shipping carrier and agree to the quotation by returning the E-Mail, we will be sending a PayPal money request for the amount of the shipping to be collected. If the parts are expected to be shipping out quickly, then you may receive that email quickly. If the parts are going to need to be built or something is on back order from the list of parts, we may hold off sending that E-Mail until we have the shipment ready to go. It can vary from order to order as to how we do that. If you think you should be hearing from us quickly, but you don't, feel free to contact us.

If you have special shipping needs or requirements, during the checkout you will see a SPECIAL ORDER INSTRUCTIONS window. Enter that special information there.

A good bit of our business is International and we have been taking care of those valued customers since 1999.

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TURO LEVANEN

'88 944 TURBO S 3 Liter Street Legal Track Racer!

This car is the only one driven both daily on the street and in the Nordic Porsche Sports Cup series.





Engine Mods Include:

3 Liter 968 block bored to 105 mm
LR 65 Turbocharger (LR)
3” to 5” exhaust (LR)
Stainless steel 3” downpipe (LR)
Sport headers (LR)
Catcam cam
Link engine management and all new electrical wiring
Old mechanical rotor ignition changed to coil pack / EMS / digital ignition with new TDC measuring
Flex fuel for 85 ethanol to 98 gas--all mixtures go
Head with 48 mm intake valves
Comet 3 layer head gasket (LR)
140# valve springs (LR)
5 angle seat grind
Larger Intercooler with aluminum hardpipes w/ silicone hoses
LR silicon water hoses
LR fuel rail with 92 lb injectors
Intake Manifold – extrude honed and polished
Racing fuel pump with new hoses
Tial 38mm wastegate
Solenoid over boost controller. Two programs (1.0-1.3 bar). 400 hp-500 hp
Wössler pistons (105 mm 8.5:1 compression) LR
Pauter con rods LR
Light battery in race mount and cut-off switch
Silicon vacuum lines LR
Rod bearings, main and balance shaft bearings Calico metal coated
Oil Pan and Balance Shafts Reseal
Recent radiator, water pump, rollers, belts etc. new – Gates Kevlar/Blue Timing belt
Approx. max horsepower 480 rwhp with 720 Nm torque (531 ft/lb) with substantial dyno hours


Driveline/Transmission:

SPEC Stage 3 Clutch LR
Heavy duty motor mounts
Heavy duty trans. mounts
Recent Clutch Master/Slave with hoses
Heavy duty drive shafts LR
Torque tube with heavy duty bearings
Quaife mechanical differential
All wheel and drive shaft bearings new
All bushings non-OEM


Brakes:

GT3RS 997 brakes and 350 mm slotted and cross drilled rotors
Turbo s rear brakes
Brake bias valve changed


Suspension:

Koni Sport Front
Koni Series 30 racing rear
Front 500 lbs coil springs
Rear 900 lbs coil springs
Adjustable front camber plates
M035 sway bars LR
Elephant Racing Polybronze spring plate bushings
Poly bushings everywhere else
Front solid bushing ball joint kit
Strut tower bar
Lower caster block bar
New front and rear wheel bearings
Recent race alignment and corner balance


Body:

Front/Rear tow hooks
Fire extinguisher system in cabin and engine bay
Fender flares
GT3 front splitter
Rear diffuser in process
968 rear lights and bumper carbon fibre
Sunroof removed (GT parts)
997 gt2 rear wing
Glass fibre hood
Plastic rear window


Interior:

Sparco/GT3 Speed Seats (R & L) in black
Porsche GT3 Steering Wheel and hub
Sparco 6pt cam lock harnesses (R & L)
Geiko racing approved gauge
Stock seat belts remain functional
Track Mats, steel plates and Lightened pedals aluminum
Extra long shifter stick and short shifter
Electrical boost control 2 programs – center console
A/F meter-center console
Fuel pressure meter
Boost meter
Racing “kill” switch in cabin
Full fire ext. system cabin and engine bay with external switch
Back seat delete
Top

INTERNATIONAL ORDERING



TO OUR INTERNATIONAL CUSTOMERS:


In the past, we have used a separate order form for placing International orders. We have quit using that process and are requiring all customer to use the shopping cart system built into the web site and it's check out process.

If you simply want a quotation and are not ready to place an order, then cut and paste the contents of your shopping basket, take a screen shot of the basket, or make a list of items and send us a email requesting a quotation with shipping.

If you need shipping prices before you make your final decision to purchase, then you should request that quotation by email and not use the shopping cart checkout process because you will be paying for the parts at that time.

Since our shopping cart and shipping estimator will "NOT" correctly calculate shipping charges on International Orders, we have it set-up to where the shipping will be Zero Dollars ($0.00) when checking out. When the shopping carts address process learns you are not in the United States by selecting your particular country, that's when it switches to equal Zero. That does NOT mean shipping is free.

Upon completion of the check out process, you will have paid for your parts but NOT the shipping on those parts.

Once we look over your parts ordered and calculate shipping weights and box sizes, we will send you an E-Mail with at least one shipping option and maybe several. We utilize UPS, DHL and the United States Postal Service (USPS) to deliver your parts.

Once you pick a shipping carrier and agree to the quotation by returning the E-Mail, we will be sending a PayPal money request for the amount of the shipping to be collected. If the parts are expected to be shipping out quickly, then you may receive that email quickly. If the parts are going to need to be built or something is on back order from the list of parts, we may hold off sending that E-Mail until we have the shipment ready to go. It can vary from order to order as to how we do that. If you think you should be hearing from us quickly, but you don't, feel free to contact us.

If you have special shipping needs or requirements, during the checkout you will see a SPECIAL ORDER INSTRUCTIONS window. Enter that special information there.

A good bit of our business is International and we have been taking care of those valued customers since 1999.