INJECTOR HARNESS INSTALL 944T
In the following instruction, we are installing a
Replacement Fuel Injector
Harness with the optional knock sensor plug into the 944 Turbo. This factory wiring harness happens to be out of the car. Many of you would
be installing this injector harness with the factory
wiring harness still in the car. All steps would be the same. You
just do your work under the hood, and under the dash. It is not necessary to
remove the factory harness and we advise against it unless you're pulling the
engine at the same time.
If you need help finding the DME and KLR, and need help locating connectors,
refer to the DME & KLR Chip Install. instructions. This will show you where they are and how to access them.
Step #1 "Position & Placement of Harness"
Lay out and position the new injector harness so that
the overall length is the same as the factory harness so
that it reaches injector 'one' (front injector) comfortably.
Step #2"Through the Firewall"
You will need to pass the new injector harness through
the firewall into the car. A good location to do this is
through the large rubber firewall boot/seal. You can poke
a hole through it with a small Phillips screwdriver, then
use a knife to make a "+" type cut. Just large enough to allow you
to push the wires through. It may work better to pull the
wires through by taping onto a coat hanger wire or screwdriver
from the foot well side of the boot.
Step #3 "Disassemble DME Plug"
Remove the small straight blade screw on the end of the DME plug. Roll
back or slide the Rubber Boot on the opposite end.
Step #4 "Slide DME Connector Cover Off"
Just like it says. Slide the cover off as shown.
Step #5"Locate DME Pin Numbers"
The DME pin numbers are located down both sides of
the DME plug. On this side you see the numbers 1 thru 18, on the other
side is 19 thru 36.
We will be working with wires at pin numbers 14 and 15.
Step #6 "Remove Pin Retaining Rail"
Simply remove this light green colored pin retaining rail. This keeps
the pins locked into place. Without removing this, you cannot
remove the original wires which is the next step.
Step #7 "Remove Wires Pin 14 & 15.
If you study the new wire terminal on the new injector harness, you will notice
a small tang or tab that springs out of the side of the terminal that works like a
fish hook. This must be depressed in order to remove the old pin/wire from the DME
plug. There is a small square area or access point on the
side of the terminal pin. If you slide a small object down this hole such as a small
Allen wrench, small screwdriver (like the one you get in a eye glass repair kit) or even a heavy paper clip, you can depress
this tab. Once depressed, you can simply pull the wire out from the other side. This is
the hardest part of the job. They can be a little stubborn. You might try pushing the wire
in tight, at the same time you trying to depress the tab. Then pull on the wire. Once you get the
first one out, the second will probably take you seconds.
There is actually a tool for this, but most people have something around the house or tool
box that will work.
Step #8 "Replace Pin Wires 14 & 15
Double check to verify you removed 14 and 15. You can now
clip/cut and remove the old wires 14 and 15.
Here we are using a pair of needle nose pliers to spread the rubber
boot enabling us to slide the new wires through the boot.
Next we re-install the new wires. Orient the pin terminal so that the
spring tab or tang is like the original was. This would be so that it
went into the access hole side.
Plug the new BLUE harness wire into DME pin #14 slot, and the new RED
harness wire into DME pin #15 slot.
Step #9 "Close Connector Up"
Re-install the Pin Retaining Rail you removed in step 6. Slide the DME connector cover back into place. Re-install the small
end screw. Slide or roll the rubber boot back into place.
The DME Connector is now complete.
Step #10 "KLR Plug"
The KLR plug is very similar to the DME plug. Remove the small
Phillips screw shown here. Peel back or roll back the rubber boot.
Step #11 "Remove Rubber Seal"
Remove the rubber seal or gasket. A small
screwdriver or pick works good to hook and pull on it.
Step #12 "Pulling Pin Holder"
The end opposite the small screw has a hook or shoulder
in the plug not allowing you to pull it straight out. Pull on the small screw end and it will tilt and
swing out.
Step #13 "Identify Pins"
Here, like the DME, we show the location of the pin
numbers.
If you were just installing the Injector Harness, without
the Knock Sensor option, or the Knock Sensor Harness separately,
then it would not be necessary to disassemble the KLR plug. The black
wire on the Injector Harness "T"s into the large black wire with
yellow stripe. It's always a good idea to verify it though.
Since on this illustration we are installing the Knock Sensor Option,
we needed to disassemble the plug. 
Step #14 "Remove Pin Retaining Rail.
Simply pull the pin retaining rail out.
Step #15 "Remove Old Knock Sensor Wires"
We need to remove the old knock sensor wires from the KLR plug for pin numbers 11, 12 and 13.
Step #16 "Cut Wires"
Here you see us cut the gray cable that contains
those three wires you just un-plugged from the KLR plug.
We do this because it gets a little crowded trying to
fish new wires into the plug without removing the old first.
Step #17 "Install New Wires"
Like with the DME plug, fish the wires through
the rubber boot and into the plug. Install the new
wires into the KLR connector as follows. Make sure once again that you
have the terminal orientated correctly so that the spring tab locks or
snaps into place
Pin 11 = Black Covered Wire
Pin 12 = Bare Ground Wires
Pin 13 = Clear Covered Wire
Step #18 "Complete KLR Plug"
Re-install the terminal pin retaining rail.
Then re-install the terminal holder into the plug housing. You need to install
the end opposite the small screw first, then rotate the other end
down and in. There is a tap that the terminal holder goes underneath.
If it's not correct, then the terminal holder will not fully seat and it
will not be parallel to the plug housing surface.
Re-install the small Phillips screws.
Step #19 "Prep for Soldering"
On the Injector Harness, there is the black wire that needs to
"T" into the black with yellow stripe #6 wire form the KLR
plug. We removed a portion of the wire covering with a knife
to expose the bare inner wire.
Step #20 "Solder Connection"
Here you see the solder joint. You need to wrap and protect this
connection with electrical tape once soldered.
Step #21 "Terminate Old Injector Harness"
Using a pair of side cutters, we cut off the old injector harness from the main
engine harness a few inches from where it protrudes
from the larger mass of wires.
There are four red wires in this group of wires. We then
cut trim these four wires so they end at different lengths. Then
tape this connection using electrical tape to protect it from touching anything metal or grounding since these red wires are
hot (12v power).
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